Take a look behind the cover of our latest issue, order your copy and catch up on issues you might have missed.
Short rows are often used to shape pieces of knitting. Instead of working to the end of every row, you work back and forth over small areas to add extra fabric.
This technique can be used to give more height at the back neck of sweaters, or to create shaped hems. It’s also used to make three-dimensional bust shaping and sock heels, or to create shaping or colourwork effects in shawls.
The wrap-and-turn method is perhaps the most familiar method of short row shaping, but many knitwear designers are increasingly choosing the German short row method instead. It’s easy to work and remember, and can be less visible in the finished fabric. Our walk-through below explains how to work this method.
We’ve concentrated on the English method of knitting and purling, so if you prefer using the Continental method or Norwegian purl, we recommend watching the excellent video produced by Anniken Allis.
You will need
- Any size knitting needles
- Yarn of your choice
How to set up German short rows
Step 1
Set up your German short rows by working a few rows of any width (or following you pattern if using one) up until the point you turn. Then turn your work, leaving the remaining stitches unworked on your right-hand needle.
Working German short rows on a purl row
Step 1
Slip the first stitch on the left-hand needle, purlwise with the yarn in front, going from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle.
Step 2
Pull the working yarn firmly up and away from you towards the back of the work. This will pull up and tighten the slipped stitch, giving it a double ‘leg’ which makes it look like a strange double stitch.
The abbreviation DS is typically used to describe this ‘double stitch’ in knitting pattern instructions, and it is counted as one stitch.
Step 3
Maintaining a firm tension on the yarn, bring the yarn back between the needles and purl the next stitch.
It will look like there are three loops – the initial slipped stitch, and the first purled stitch. Continue to purl to the end of the row.
Working German short rows on a knit row
Step 1
Bring the yarn between the needles to the front of the work.
Step 2
Slip the first stitch on the left-hand needle, purlwise with the yarn in front, going from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle.
Step 3
Pull the working yarn firmly up and away from you towards the back of the work. This will pull up and tighten the stitch, and give it a double ‘leg’ (DS).
Step 4
Maintaining a high tension on the yarn, knit the next stitch. It will look like there are three loops – the initial slipped stitch, and the first knitted stitch. Continue to knit to the end of the row.
Resolving the double stitches in German short rows
Step 1
When working a row that has a double stitch on it, or if your pattern instructions tell you to work to within a certain number of stitches of the last double stitch, you will be able to spot where the double stitch is as there will be a slightly bigger gap to the left of it, and the slipped stitch will look like a double stitch.
Step 2
When you come to work a double stitch (DS), treat it as a single stitch and either purl both legs of the double stitch together…
Step 3
… or knit them together.
Step 4
If you’re following a pattern, it should indicate which method to use to resolve your double stitches.
Short rows for socks
If you’re someone who knits up a lot of socks, then you should definitely take a look at our dedicated short rows for sock heels tutorial.
Now it’s time to practise your German short rows
The German short row technique can be a bit tricky to get right, so don’t be discouraged if it is a little lumpy and bumpy the first time you try. It’s a good idea to knit a little swatch first so you can try this technique a few times before you give it a go on your latest project. But the most important thing is to have fun with it, and enjoy using (and showing off) your new German short row skills.
Try a different technique with Gathered!
If you don’t get on with this method, or want to expand your repertoire, try our wrapless short rows tutorial too.
