This technique will give you a neat, stretchy edge for hats, cuffs and garment hems, as Faye Perriam-Reed explains
The tubular cast-on technique is popular for hats, cuffs and hems, because it is nice and stretchy. It also produces a clean, neat edge for 1×1 or 2×2 ribbing where a continuous fabric is created that curves right around the hem edge. This is a comfortable cast-on for accessories and garments as it’s also slightly thicker due to the few rows of double knitting worked at the beginning.
There are several different ways to work a tubular cast-on, and here we explore the long-tail method.
Long-tail tubular cast-on
The long-tail tubular cast-on technique is made up over a few rows. The cast-on row is similar to the regular long-tail cast-on; however, you will be alternating knit and purl stitches. You’ll then work two ‘tubular’ rows, which are essentially double knitting, before beginning your rib. These tubular rows will curve around the very edge of the knitting, making it appear seamless.
When working in the round, it is advised that you work the first few rows on straight knitting needles before joining to work in the round, as the cables on circular needles tend to tangle which can make this cast-on more tricky than it needs to be.
Note that this cast-on may differ slightly from other long-tail tubular cast-ons you may find online – I prefer to work it this way as it is more fluid for me.
Long-tail tubular cast-on: step-by-step instructions
Cast-on row
Make a yarn tail approximately 3-4 times longer than the desired width of the cast-on. Fold the yarn at this point and place over the needle.
Step 1

Hold both strands of yarn in your left hand, and insert your thumb and forefinger in between them, with the tail end going over your thumb.
Step 2

Turn your left hand so your palm is pointing up, keeping hold of the strand on the RH needle with your right hand.
Step 3

Take the needle over the strand on your forefinger, down behind and underneath…
Step 4

…then towards you underneath both strands.
Step 5

Take the right needle over the strand on your thumb, then point the needle down and take it underneath the strand on your forefinger…
Step 6

…then bring the needle up and move your forefinger backwards slightly to create a stitch on the needle.
There are now two stitches on the needle. The stitch just created will become the
purl stitch.
Make a knit stitch as follows:
Step 7

Bring the needle tip over the strand on your thumb, then go down and underneath it…
Step 8

…then take it away from you and over the stitch on your forefinger.
Step 9

Point the needle down and take it underneath both the stitch on your forefinger and the stitch on your thumb…
Step 10

…then bring it up to create a knit stitch on your needle.
If you look closely, you’ll notice that the purl stitch has a little bump in front of it, and the knit stitch doesn’t, rather like regular knit and purl stitches. Use these to keep track of which stitch you have just cast on.
Step 11

Continue to repeat steps 3-10 until the desired amount of stitches have been cast on, ending on a purl stitch. You might find it helpful to hold onto the new stitches to keep them from slipping around – they have a tendency to want to twist, and this can get a little confusing.
Set-up row 1
Turn the needle so it is in your left hand, keeping hold of the yarn tail.
Step 12

Knit into this stitch, and then bring the yarn to the front between the needles, slip the next (purl) stitch purlwise, and take the yarn to the back between the needles. Continue across the row in this manner, knitting all of the knit stitches through the back loop and slipping all of the purl stitches.
Set-up row 2
Step 13

Turn the work and work as for Set-up row 1, knitting the knit sts through the back loop, and slipping the purl stitches with the yarn in front. You are now ready to begin working in 1×1 rib.
To work in 2×2 rib
If you want to work in 2×2 rib, you will need to rearrange the stitches before working the set-up rows.
Work as for 1×1 rib until the end of Step 12.
Step 14

K1, then insert LH needle from left to right into the second stitch (a knit stitch) on the RH needle.
Step 15

Carefully slip the first and second stitches off the LH needle, leaving the purl stitch briefly in mid air…
Step 16

Then catch this stitch on the LH needle.
Step 17

Slip the stitch from the RH needle back to the LH needle purlwise…
Step 18

And knit it.
Two stitches have been knitted, and there are now two purl stitches on the LH needle ready to be purled.
Purl these two stitches, then repeat from step 15 until all stitches have been worked.
Set-up rows for 2×2 rib
The set up rows are worked in a similar manner to those for 1×1 rib, instead knitting two stitches and slipping two purl stitches on each row.
After two set-up rows, you are ready to work in 2×2 rib.


Create super-stretchy edges with the long-tail tubular cast-on method
Now you’ve mastered this technique, you can use it on all sorts of knitting projects where you don’t want your cast-on edges to be too tight – such as sweater and cardigan necks, the cuffs on your toe-up socks and top-down sleeves, and so much more.
Boost your knitting skills with Simply Yarn!
Inspired to learn more knitting techniques and get great results? Explore our expert guides on Gathered! Useful tutorials include Judy’s Magic Cast-on and the German Twisted Cast-on.
Read more:
Faye Perriam-Reed
Faye Perriam-Reed is a knitwear designer and technical editor, having worked and designed for both The Knitter and Simply Knitting. She enjoys exploring construction and finishing techniques to achieve neater results.

