Meet knitwear designer Jennie Atkinson

Designer Jennie Atkinson has had a distinguished career, and has published a collection of pattern books as well as producing numerous knitwear designs for Rowan Yarns and The Knitter. She is known for her feminine, flattering knitwear which often combines fashion-led shapes with vintage details, so it’s no surprise her work has long been popular with knitters around the world.

It’s always a treat to collaborate with Jennie, and we caught up with her to chat about her approach to knitwear design and what she has been working on recently.

Can you tell us a little bit about your design process?

“I’m often asked about inspiration for my designs, and I would say ‘anything and everything’! I go for walks almost every day in my area of London, which is near the Thames, and I would say I’m absorbing inspiration from nature, but also from the built environment.

It may not be a literal inspiration, but I think it’s there in my subconscious. I also like visiting art and design exhibitions and museums, and I like to keep abreast of what’s going on in the fashion world – I originally did a degree in fashion design – but would say that I’m more interested now in ‘style’ than the latest fashions.

When I’m designing for a client such as The Knitter, I am sent ‘mood boards’ of themes. This is a good starting point for ideas for yarns that I might use, as well as stitches, colour and texture. I will then look at the catwalk collections for that season to see if there are any strong themes for garment shapes that are emerging.

About three or four years ago, many of the big designers featured sleeveless vests in their collections, so I included some designs for these in my submissions to The Knitter – and the ‘Danbury’ waistcoat in Issue 162 and ‘Joceline’ vest top in Issue 190 were the results!”

“I will sit and play with yarns and stitch patterns, and this often prompts ideas for garments which I will draw in a sketchbook. As I’m working, I pin the swatches to a board and let my subconscious do some work! I then move onto doing design drawings – whilst drawing I’m putting the garment together mentally and testing whether those swatches can be turned into garments.

I pick the ones I’m most happy with, create finished drawings and swatches, and send these off. I really enjoy the whole process!”

Can you pick out a particular design you’ve most enjoyed working on recently?

“I love trying out new techniques, and a few years ago I made myself a throw for my sofa using a modular technique of making squares on circular needles, then picking up stitches from one edge to make the next square and so on. When I came to designing for The Knitter for winter 2025, I thought it might be interesting to use the same technique to knit squares for garments or accessories but using a variegated yarn, so that each square would be different colourwise.

The results were the ‘Rievaulx’ scarf and hat which appeared in Issue 220, and which I’m really pleased with! I’ve also had a sweater design commissioned which uses the same technique, and will appear in a forthcoming issue.”

What is your favourite design from your pattern portfolio?

“This will probably change every time I’m asked, but I think in the past few years it would have to be ‘Tierney’ from The Knitter 146. It took ages to get the sample right and involved quite a lot of mathematics!

I was pleased with the result, but was even more gratified that it was so popular with knitters. I’ve since updated the design, adding long sleeves, and am currently working on a new version. If a design is successful, it makes sense to continue to develop it.”

Do you have a favourite yarn to work with? 

“The choice of yarn depends on the garment and stitch used. It’s always a pleasure to work with a really nice, soft wool such as Erika Knight’s British Blue, which I’ve used a lot, or the gorgeous Exquisite Lace and Bluefaced Leicester DK from West Yorkshire Spinners. Another soft yarn is Swan Falkland Islands 4ply from Blacker Yarns.

When I’m looking for a wide range of colours I find Cascade wool yarns are great. I do like a drapey yarn, and have used both Quince & Co. Sparrow and Kestrel linen yarns for designs I created for them. I’ve also been swatching with a shiny, drapey bamboo yarn from Go Handmade.

Lastly, I’m currently playing with two Drops yarns – Air and Sky – both with alpaca content, and lightweight yet moderately bulky yarns.”

Do you have a favourite knitting book that you’d recommend to keen knitters looking to try their hand at design?

“I can’t really recommend a design book as I suppose I’m self-taught – and that involved a lot of trial and error, which is no bad thing. It was a long time ago, and I was studying fashion design and learning pattern-cutting and dressmaking, which has been useful. I picked up ideas for shapes and details from vintage patterns. 

But I often still refer to the Vogue Dictionary of Knitting Stitches by Anne Matthews, and A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker for stitch patterns – sometimes modifying them.”

What do you have on your needles today?

“I do like to knit samples myself, and I am currently making a sample for The Knitter. I also want to reknit a garment I designed several years ago – a shawl-collar wrap coat – for which the yarn has been discontinued. I still love the design, but want to make a few minor improvements to the pattern. I’ve just ordered a replacement yarn!”

Find more of Jennie’s work on her website.

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